Like the others siggested, rrplace the busbars with fused terminal boxes, much easier if a fuse blows, you'll know ecactly where it is, and if you get the clever ones, an LED comes on by the blown fuse. Guessing you're going to need more solar. You mention BMV shunt, but I see no wires BMV. I think it's for security as when the lid is open, it's easy to remove with a screwdriver. No matter what it was doing before.DDocumented in the instructions. On the maxxfan, power on behaviour is to close the lid. And as it includes your AC distribution, trips etc, life is much easier. I'd suggest using an easysolar unit instead of separates. Surely everything should go through this, its a battery disconnect) (And- your 'MAIN Switch' is doing virtually nothing. Depends on where you are, how often you move, how picky you can be on where you park, how deep into winter you expect it to run. I had 200w to run a 60l fridge, no inverter but then I am in UK and expect it to run most of the year with no split charge input. Permanant labels, different colours, cable numbers, coloured marking rings etc.Ģ00w of solar could be light for the system but it all depends how you intend to use it. I also have a dashboard switch in the split-charge feed from the alternator as in summer, if you drive in the morning then you are wasting petrol charging the aux battery rather than using your solar.Īre you really going to use lots of inline fuses rather than a fuse box for 12v? thats going to be really messy.Ĭonsider at the design stage how you are going to mark all your cables to differentiate them. I find it helpful to be able to turn off my router too. Certainly helpful to be able to switch the fridge on and off as its a high load. post)Ĭonsider adding a switch panel/switches. Others have picked up battery wiring isuses (currently missing proper return cable and return cable from wrong battery- solved if wiring both batteries to the bar as per prev.
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